Vintage Knitting Techniques

(Note: Antique and vintage crochet terms can be found here).

The foundation of all knitted fabrics are the knit stitch and the purl stitch. Authorities differ as to how many stitches are in knitting. Some say one - the knit stitch. Some say two, the Knit and Purl.

The Western Knit Stitch, which is the older of the two stitches [knit and purl] was up until the middle ages always crossed. Nowadays the more popular stitch is the uncrossed stitch.

Knit Stitch Uncrossed [not twisted] is also known as Plain Stitch, Right Stitch, Open Stitch, White Stitch. [White stitches were always represented as white and purl stitches as black in the old knitting charts]. [Fig 1].

This stitch is formed by inserting the right needle into the front of the loop. The yarn is then passed under the right needle and drawn through as a new loop.

Purl Stitch Uncrossed [not twisted] is also known as Seam Stitch, Black Stitch, Ridge Stitch, Pearl Stitch, Back Stitch, Rib Stitch, Left Stitch, Raised stitch, Rough Stitch, Wrong Stitch. [Fig 2 below].

This stitch is formed with the yarn to the front of the fabric and the right hand needle is inserted into the front of the loop.

Knit and Purl Stitched Crossed
This is formed by inserting the needle into the back of the loop instead of the front causing the loop to to cross from right over to left. [Figs 3 and 4].

When the purl loops are also crossed the fabric then becomes known as crossed or twisted stocking stitch Crossed stitches have a better elastic action such as is needed on belts, ribbing etc.

Knit Stitch Uncrossed [Eastern] is formed by reversing both the movements of yarn and needles worked the western way. [Fig 5].

This means the Plain or uncrossed knit Stitches are worked through the back of the loop while the Crossed Stitches are worked through the front of the loop. The Golden Rule- Yarn to the back for knit stitch and to the front for purl stitch remains the same.

Purl Stitch Uncrossed [Eastern].

This is shown where the right needle is again inserted through the back of the stitch, but the yarn is thrown under the needle.

Knit Stitch Crossed [Eastern].

This is formed by Knitting or Purling into the front of the stitch and throwing the the yarn over the needle for the knit stitch and under the the needle to form the purl stitch.

Knit Stitch - Uncrossed - Combined Methods [Figs 9 and 10 show the combination of Western and Eastern movements].

Advantages of the combined methods is that the resulting fabric is more even and closer in construction and felts more easily. Stocking Stitch knitted in silk or cotton has a better appearance using this method.

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